
When the first Europeans settled the eastern side of Mount Desert Island, they named their
town "Eden". Given the puritan ethos of young New England our forebears were not waxing
poetically but were instead honoring an English statesman, Sir Richard Eden. Still,
they can be forgiven their lack of lyricism, for the name they chose proved to be
well-suited. Even after the name was changed to Bar Harbor in 1918, the air of paradise
remained.
Alone among the thousands of islands of the Maine coast, Mount Desert Island
has been blessed with a unique ecology that truly makes it a garden of plenty. For the
early settlers, while the soil was poor the sea was rich, both in food and opportunity.
The thin, rocky earth, so frustrating for the farmer, provided perfect conditions for
the trees that were transformed into ships. The grace and beauty of these vessels echoed
the island that gave them life. The ships and boats of Downeast Maine plied the oceans
of the world, transporting the best of America and returning with exotic treasures from
distant ports. Seafarers also worked the frigid home waters of Maine, harvesting the
wealth of the sea.
In the 1840's the sea brought two fateful visitors who launched Bar Harbor down
a new path. The two were the Hudson River Valley School artist, Thomas Cole and
Frederic Church, who not only translated the magical light and texture of the ocean
onto canvas but also turned their attentions to the majestic mountains of the interior.
Their art turned heads in the salons of the wealthy of the east coast, and soon their
patrons followed in the painters' footsteps. The hardscrabble fishing village of Eden,
not yet incorporated for a century, developed a tradition of welcoming arms for visitors
from around the globe.
First came the hardy, with their sketch books and walking staffs;
then the wealthy with their guest books and domestic staffs to the beautiful, landlocked
bay stretching away into the distance and losing itself in numerous coves and inlets,
amid purple hills and green, wooded shores. The waters now wash the feet of weather-worn
precipices and anon breaking softly on glistening sand and pebbles. Studded over the
surface of this bay are bright emerald islands, rich in foliage, stately landmarks of
the ages. As the summer sun shines brightly on the panorama of sea and mountain, one can
imagine himself in this island of refuge, so enticingly does it seem to invite to repose.
The majestic mountains of Acadia rear their bold summits toward the sky, and sheltered
valleys lie nestling at their base. Lovely lakes abound, reflecting in their pellucid
depths an endless vista of mountain and forest. Brooks, with shady pools where the trout
love to hide, flow gently through its vales, or leap, foaming, from rock to rock in
their headlong course to the sea. Mountain, forest and lake scenery meet the eye in
every direction, while the rock-bound shores and lofty cliffs form a picturesque
frontier to this island paradise.
Nowadays, Bar Harbor embodies the more egalitarian traditions and values of the
state of Maine. This is a place where a smile begets a smile, where front porches are
for socializing instead of adornment, where the beauty of the landscape infuses the
souls of all who live or visit here. This is a gentle place but never dull; a place of
both innocence and deep sophistication. Bar Harbor is a "renaissance" town, a place for
rebirth, well rounded and open minded. You can, for example, breakfast cheek by jowl
with lobstermen, lose yourself upon the mountains of Acadia, then dine on the catch of
that morning's companions to the sounds of a jazz trio or a string quartet. Here, the
spiritual and cultural wealth of the world is yours for the taking. Bar Harbor lives
by the motto "carpe diem"; an attitude echoed by our visitors. Paradise, after all,
was never meant to be monotonous!
For the adventurous, Bar Harbor makes the perfect base camp. Surrounded on
three sides by Acadia National Park and on the fourth by the Atlantic Ocean, Bar
Harbor has outfitters, guides, mariners, suppliers, and instructors whose daily work
is based around helping you make the most of the chances and excitement our peerless
environment offers. Acadia maintains fifty five miles of carriage roads for walking,
riding, biking, and skiing, and over one hundred miles of trails purely for hikers.
The lakes, rivers, and oceans are perfect for those who enjoy messing about in boats;
sailors, kayakers, and canoeists can find their own aquatic nirvana, either going
solo or lead by the experts. The combination of the sea breeze and mountain air
often adds a spring to the step of hikers, or revitalizes the rock climbers squaring
up to the challenge of the Beehive, Otter Cliffs, or the Precipice Trail. It is a
good thing that our restaurants offer such generous and varied menus; for the
outdoors type, Bar Harbor and Acadia not only boost endorphin levels, they also
stoke appetites!
Not everyone though, wants to be so active on vacation. After all, isn't it a time
to rest? If you are looking to unwind, the very conditions that capture the daring also
paradoxically create a haven of relaxation. This can be a town for late breakfasts,
gentle strolls, browsing through stores, and dining at your leisure. The pace of life
in Maine reflects a more genteel time, where not everything has to be done yesterday
and the only demands on your schedule are self-made. All year, Bar Harbor is recognized
as a place to retreat to. Come and pause among the lupines of spring, enjoy the dog
days of summer, relax among the russet tones of fall, or revel in the quiet snow blanket
of winter. For those in search of a place to recharge their batteries, Acadia is a balm
for the eyes and spirit. Let someone else look to the chores of life; the cooking,
the cleaning and all; instead devote your energies to gentle exploration and lingering
evenings under the starlight.
Indeed, Bar Harbor is a town for all seasons for both active and contemplative
pursuits. Each phase of the year offers something unique for visitors. At times it is
as if Bar Harbor is four different towns, each reveling in the particular charms of
the changing seasons. Spring is a time of reemergence, a time of growth and return.
While the dazzling fireglow of fall trees is the color display normally associated
with New England, spring is a secret time of bold primary shades. It is also the for
"off-season" bargains and the reawakening of Bar Harbor's seasonal businesses.
Summer is the traditional "high-season", the town offering a full menu of
vacation options from July through September. Being on an island, Bar Harbor is
blessed with a benign summer climate making it the perfect escape from urban humidity.
The temperature averages out to around eighty degrees and the ocean provides a cooling
breeze to take the sweat out of more active pursuits. The long evenings and early
dawns allow for full days and nights, followed almost invariably by deep sleep!
Fall is inevitably thought of as "foliage season". The leaves begin their
magnificent transformation in mid to late September and peaks in early October. Leaf
peeping has become a steadfast tradition and there are few places in New England that
can offer a juxtaposition of fall color and ocean scenery as stunning as that of Bar
Harbor and Acadia. In addition, almost all the same activities offered in the summer
now continue on through the Columbus Day weekend. Winter brings a blanket of hush to
Bar Harbor, and often by late December a wondrous blanket of snow. The ambiance is
quieter, drawing winter sports enthusiasts who come to ski or snowshow in Acadia
National Park; or romantics who see the magic of crunching snow underfoot, and a
warming fire at the inn. There are several accommodations that offer a welcome in
the winter, alongside restaurants, stores, and of course Acadia National Park.
As with all things, in enjoying Mount Desert Island's interpretation of Eden,
we follow where nature leads. Perhaps it is some innate instinct that draws us here.
The great whales know the value of this place. Between April and October humpbacks,
finbacks, minkes, and a multitude of dolphins come to the waters off the island to
break their winter fast. The oceanic abundance also lures seals and a variety of
rare and beautiful birds to our waters, including the much loved puffin. On land,
it is not unusual to see deer, an occasional moose, beavers, foxes, eagles, hawks,
and a special Acadia success story, the peregrine falcon. The island ecosystem is
such that plant species from climate zones as diverse as the tundra to the New
Jersey Coastal Plain can be found growing in close proximity. Surely then, there
is something benignly magical about this place. As Shakespeare wrote,
"A rose by any other name would smell as sweet", so it is with Bar Harbor.
Our town may no longer be called Eden, but it still has the feel of that garden.
Generations of people, from the Wabanaki Indians through to the visitors of today
have recognized the special spirit and beauty of this place. Now you can, too.